Trends come and go for teenagers and pre-teens, but a recent surge of interest in anti-aging skincare has dermatologist Natalie Nasser, MD, at Kaiser Permanente Riverside concerned.?The internet has been awash with videos of girls, as young as 9 or 10 roaming around stores like Sephora, purchasing expensive cosmetics and anti-aging skincare products.?These products are not only unnecessary in this age group, but they can be quite irritating and cause dryness to young skin. Using these strong products can sometimes even cause rashes like?eczema and allergic contact dermatitis. And layering on too many products can block the pores and sometimes lead to acne breakouts.?
Dr. Nasser explains: “Many products have what we call 'active' ingredients — like salicylic acid, retinol, peptides, etc. They are more suitable for mature skin to target wrinkles or skin with specific concerns like acne. But for ‘tweens or pre-teens without any skin problems, these ingredients can sometimes do damage by irritating the skin, and even causing redness, peeling, or itching, like an allergic reaction.”
The marketing of these products sends a troublesome message to our young girls; that they need to use many different products on their faces to look beautiful and keep up with other girls.
As we get older, the amount of collagen our skin produces slowly wanes, leading to the development of wrinkles. “Sun exposure and smoking accelerate this process,” says Dr. Nasser. Retinol may help slow the appearance of aging in adults by exfoliation of the skin and may also increase the production of collagen reducing fine lines and dark spots over time. However, before a person reaches their twenties, they typically have plenty of collagen according to Dr. Nasser. A 10-year-old girl, for example, does not need to use retinol.
Many young people even mix ingredients together to create a "skincare smoothie," which can alter the pH of the skin and result in irritation. Not all ingredients work well together or are meant to be mixed. Additionally, using retinol improperly, i.e., in the morning or without sun protection, can result in increased sun sensitivity.?
There are many self-proclaimed “skin care experts” online but as a real board-certified dermatologist, Dr. Nasser recommends that younger people interested in skincare stick to a basic routine that avoids stronger, more irritating ingredients. “A simple and practical routine is best. Cleanse the face once or twice a day with a gentle facial cleanser,” she explains. There is no need to break the bank to afford this. Drugstore brands (Cetaphil or Cerave for example) are perfectly fine. Applying a “broad-spectrum” sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or more every morning is of utmost importance. At nighttime, add a facial moisturizer if the skin seems dry. That's it. No 10-step face regimen is needed.
Using sun protection is essential; it is a way for younger people who are concerned about wrinkles to avoid premature aging of the skin. This encompasses not only applying the sunscreen itself, but also avoiding peak hours of sun, and wearing a broad-brimmed hat and sunglasses too.?Kids should develop these habits early on so that they become part of their normal daily routine.
“If your pre-teen or teen is indeed showing signs of a skin condition like acne, then they may benefit from ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, and retinol,” adds Dr. Nasser. It is best to seek the care and guidance of your health care professional when constructing an acne treatment regimen, but certainly, these ingredients have shown proven efficacy for acne over the years. Dr. Nasser advises “As we always say, start low and go slow.”